Basel

By: Denise Morrison

Basel, Switzerland — Take a small ferryboat or walk across the nearby bridge Mittlere Brücke (one of five bridges) over the Rhine to ‘Kleinbasel’. This area is home to Basel’s Messehall (convention center), antique shops, department stores, and several museums. Worth visiting here is the Fondation Beyeler, a well-regarded art museum, displaying works from Klee to Kandinsky.

Basel, Switzerland has long been associated as a pharmaceutical industry hub and increasingly as a world-class destination for art, watch and jewelry aficionados. Located on the Rhine and sharing borders with Germany and France, Basel is easily accessible from Zurich in one hour by train, or in two hours from Paris via the high-speed train, TGV.

As Switzerland’s second largest city and with a history spanning more than 1,000 years, Basel deserves more than just a passing glance. The city is visitor-friendly, best traversed on foot or using public transportation. Trams criss-cross the city regularly and punctually. A one-day pass costs approx $7.50 and includes all modes of public transport – train, tram, bus. A standard fare, one-way ticket costs roughly the equivalent of $3.00 and is valid for 2 hours. Maps of the tramlines and fare details can be found posted at the tram stops. When staying at a hotel in Basel, ask about special public transportation passes for visitors.

A good starting point for exploring the city is the Barfüsserplatz “bare feet square”, (named for the Franciscan monks who lived there centuries ago.) The Barfüsser Church once a convent, now houses Basel’s Historical Museum. Next to it, the grand Casino building – soon to be newly designed by acclaimed architect Zaha Hadid, houses restaurants, a theater, a visitor information center and ticket office. You’ll notice an abundance of sidewalk cafes located in this square and these seem to be popular even in chilly temps, day and evening. A unique spot for lunch is the Brötli Bar. Since 1906 this quaint restaurant has been serving open face sandwiches (Brötli means small or little bread.) The sandwiches feature everything from meats and seafood to celery salad to white asparagus. Think of it as the sushi bar for gourmet open-faced sandwiches! The Barfusserplatz’s central location makes it also the site of Basel’s Christmas market and other specialty craft fairs.

From here, stroll up the adjacent Freie Strasse - a prime-shopping street - to the Marktplatz square, located at the northwest end. This square features a fresh produce and flower market everyday except Sundays. Dominating the Marktplatz is the Renaissance style, brightly painted “Rathaus” or City Hall. Note the decorative wall paintings and wood paneling found in two council chambers that are open to the public. Across the square lies a must for chocoholics and those seeking souvenirs: Confiserie Schiesser. Since 1870 this store/café has been selling signature sweets and houses a Tea Room upstairs.

From either the Marktplatz square or the Freie Strasse, take one of a number of narrow passageways up the hill to reach the Munsterplatz (Munster square). Built in the 12th century, Basel’s Cathedral – the Munster – a red sandstone, Romanesque and Gothic-style landmark stands where Roman fortifications once stood. The Munster is free to tour and features, for example, the tomb of Erasmus, who taught at Basel’s university – the oldest in Switzerland. The Munsterplatz is a popular gathering place and among the sites here are the Swiss Museum of Ethnology, a puppet theater and a couple fine eateries, such as Restaurant zum Isaak, frequented by an artsy crowd. Don’t miss the terrace park to the rear of the cathedral as it offers picturesque views of the Rhine.

Take a small ferryboat or walk across the nearby bridge Mittlere Brücke (one of five bridges) over the Rhine to ‘Kleinbasel’. This area is home to Basel’s Messehall (convention center), antique shops, department stores, and several museums. Worth visiting here is the Fondation Beyeler, a well-regarded art museum, displaying works from Klee to Kandinsky. Swiss artist Jean Tinguely, who grew up in Basel and is known for his kinetic {and eccentric} mechanized sculptures, has a museum here. Special exhibits (including one of Max Ernst’s works) and related subjects such as contemporary kinetic art are featured. Designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta, the Tinguely Museum, which is run by Roche (the pharma firm) offers a museum store and a café with views of the Rhine. (Admission approx $20.)

Visitors should note that Basel is home to numerous museums that appeal to all ages and tastes. The Kunstmuseum (Art Museum) is Europe’s oldest public art collection and houses works by Picasso, Van Gogh and Holbein in a newly revamped building. Others attractions vary from the Doll’s House Museum, The Pharmaceutical Museum, the Jewish Museum of Switzerland, the Museum of Natural History, to the Frank Gehry-designed Vitra Design Museum (located just across the border in Germany; a short bus ride away). The Basel Zoo, affectionately known as Zolli is the largest in Switzerland – 28 acres - and houses upwards of 223 animal species. (Admission price from $6 to $15.)

There is a good assortment of hotels in Basel, though reserve far in advance if you plan to attend major events such as Art Basel. And, especially if your plans include staying at such grand dame properties as the Hotel Les Troi Rois (one of Europe’s oldest hotels and recently renovated) or the train station-close Hotel Euler. The Swissotel Le Plaza Basel is a large hotel adjacent to the convention center; or you may wish to opt for a hotel in the Old Town, such as the Basel or the art hotel Der Teufelhof – also the site of a small theater and in restaurant.

Speaking of restaurants, Basel offers numerous fine dining and casual eateries. Swiss cuisine – a fusion of French and German – is comprised of superb dishes that will satisfy the most discriminating palate. Recommended dishes range from Forelle Blau

(melt-in-your-mouth poached trout served with a burnt butter sauce) to the irresistible honey spiced sweets known as Läckerli. The restaurant Safran Zunft – named after one of Basel’s historic guilds - recently won a historical restaurant of the year award, and features a Swiss and an Out of South Africa menu. If you are visiting during autumn or winter, try the dish known as Rehpfeffer – venison stew served with Spätzli - a hearty treat.

The Hotel Trois Rois offers two great choices in dining with views of the Rhine; a neighboring property, the restaurant Chez Donati, serves the best food in town. The always in favor landmark restaurant, Kunsthalle, houses an art gallery and is located adjacent to Tinguely’s water machine sculpture – a large open air ballet of fountains in the summer and a fascinating ice sculpture in winter – at the Theaterplatz.

The nightlife scene in Basel is typically focused on which DJ is playing at what nightclub or venue. The 3Dreilandereck restaurant’s “Club 3” (remember, this is where three countries – Switzerland, France and Germany intersect) keeps the trendsetters dancing ‘til dawn on weekends. In a more central part of town, the Café des Arts is a popular hangout and features a jazz piano player most nights. The long-standing Atlantis nightclub plays host to rock bands and packs them in on two floors.

Last but certainly not least, the Rhine: the pulse of Basel and the attraction paramount to its identity. Scenic half-day cruises, dinner cruises, are a pleasurable way to view the city and environ. The Rhine falls by Rhinefelden or the ancient Roman theater in the nearby historical site known as Augusta Raurica are popular destinations. Adjacent to the Mittlere Brucke bridge and the Hotel Trois Rois is an information/ticket office as well as a departure point for the boats. (Prices are varied yet reasonable.)

Whether taking in the city’s annual carnival (see sidebar), enjoying outdoor concerts on the banks of the Rhine, or hobnobbing with the elite of the modern art world, Basel presents a laidback, picturesque platform for both.