San Juan Islands Practices Island Time with Fervor

Story & photos by: Connie Young

Ferries serve the San Juan Islands, bringing cars, trucks, tourists and residents to this laid back lifestyle known to practice ‘island time’ with fervor.

Friday Harbor rises from the rocky outcroppings at the dock’s shoreline. I would imagine that seasons here mark the passage of time rather than calendar days as I arrived in the long shadows of the late afternoon just as the fingers of summer were losing their grip on warm, sunny days.

Port Townsend is one of two ferry docks serving the peninsula from the San Juan Islands and a quick ride to Olympic National Park. The town of Port Townsend has a storied past and thriving present with sights and sounds of its own waiting to be discovered.  Once referred to as “New York of the West” in the 1880’s, the city’s downtown buildings were built on a grand scale as city fathers waited for the railroad to complete the connection into town.

WHIDBEY ISLAND

No laidback lifestyle here.  Whidbey Island, discovered in 1792 by Captain Vancouver, is remarkably, the longest island in the continental United States.

The communities on Whidbey are quite distinct.  North Whidbey enjoys the stunning beauty of Deception Pass State Park while the city of Oak Harbor is its largest community, with many ties to the Naval Air Station.  In the middle of Whidbey Island you’ll find Penn Cove where mussel beds yield the world’s largest single crop.

Penn Cove is also home to the Captain Whidbey Inn.  For over 100 years the inn has considered itself “delightfully out of step” and it’s true.  The log lodge is homey, the dining room filled with antiques and the upstairs accommodations original to the turn of the century with rooms lining the central hall that share a common bath.  I hear Room 8 is visited by one or more spirits that just won’t leave!  Outside the lodge on the beautiful grounds, modern 2-room cabins hug the cove and hotel style accommodations can be found on the lagoon.  For information, contact the establishment at www.captainwhidebey.com .

Dining is exceptional at Frasers Gourmet Hideaway.  Creation of their gourmet plates is in full view each evening.  Chef Scott and his wife, Josee,   are both graduates of the French-focused Pierre Dubrulle Culinary School understand the importance of food. Frasers creates a seasonal menu that takes advantage of the freshest local ingredients and promotes the bounty of the Northwest.  A meal not to be missed, Frasers is located at 1181 S.E. Dock St. in Oak Harbor.  Visit their website at www.frasersgh.com for menu choices.

When it comes to finding things to do, Whidbey has it all:  beach adventures, bird watching, boating, diving, farms and farmers’ markets, gardens, golfing, hiking and historical sites as well as just relaxation.  To plan your visit, consult the island’s website at www.whidbeycamanoislands.com .